Oil Change – Maserati Gransport / Coupe / Spyder / 4200

The process of changing the oil on a dry sump system such as that found on the GranSport/Coupe/Spyder/4200 is a bit different than what’s found in the vast majority of cars (wet sumps).

The design differs in that instead of having a large/deep oil pan directly under the engine block, these system is broken into a remotely mounted oil tank that feeds into the oil pump. From there, the oil pump distributes lubrication throughout the engine.

The first step is to get the oil warmed up. Drive or idle the car until the coolant hits 90 deg C.

Next, remove the oil fill cap in the engine bay (after removing the plastic trim surround piece). This will aid in draining the oil. If it is tight like mine, you can put a soft cloth over it and gently use a crescent wrench to break it free.

Now raise the car. Be sure to do it in a safe manner.

The next step is you may need to remove the plastic under-shield under the front bumper. In my case, I have a large hole in the under-shield which allows access to the sump drain plug. However, some vehicles did not and so removal of the shield is necessary. In my case, I removed it anyways to get cleaner access to everything and inspect other items under the car.

The removal of the under-shield is a bit tedious, but fairly straight forward. Start with the three phillips head screws in each of the wheel wells (BLUE). If you place a screw driver but onto a ratchet, you can get these out fairly easily without the need to remove the front wheels. In all cases, with these fasteners, be sure to not loose any of the associated washers/etc. on them.

Next, remove the three 12mm bolts (GREEN) at the rear center of the shield. Finally, there are fourteen 10mm bolts (RED) around the circumference of the front of the shield. Remove all of these. Once all of these are removed, the shield should just fall out.

This shield has a hole in it under where the sump drain plug is. If yours doesn’t have this, this may be a good time to add one for your next oil change.

Now with access to the bottom of the tank, the next step is to remove the drain bolt. This is a 22mm bolt. Be sure to have a container underneath to catch a ample amount of fluid. In my case, around 5L of oil flowed out of it.

While the tank is draining, you will want to drain the oil in the crankcase sump next. This requires a 10mm hex head nut socket. You’ll know you have the right one as it’s labelled “scarioco olio” (oil discharge according to google). This one is messy to deal with. Initially, I left the heat-shield on under the engine. The draining oil gets all over this and also gets all over the two black cables going to the front oxygen sensors.

I made this process slightly less messy by wedging a small funnel under the drain hole to direct the oil into my capture pan. It still made a huge mess though. Next time I do this, I will likely remove the heat shield (see below) and tie the two cables out of the way temporarily.

I extracted another 2L or so out of this drain.

While both holes are still draining, the next thing to do is remove the oil filter. I HIGHLY recommend you find a proper filter wrench for this. The area is a bit tight to work in, but not terrible.

I found this filter wrench for a bargain. You can find more about it at https://gransportmaserati.wordpress.com/2019/11/23/maserati-oil-filter-wrench/

The correct filter part number is 188814. Be sure to get this one and not the one starting with 28xxxx. That one is for wetsump engines, and although it looks similar and fits, it will cause severe damage to your dry sump motor!

You will find the filter tucked up on the side of the engines right side pointing towards the rear of the car.

A bit more oil will pour out of here, mainly onto your steering rack below. It would be advisable to put a rag under it to try and catch as much as you can. Otherwise, wipe up any of the spillage after and wipe off the mating surface on the oil pump. Also ensure the black rubber o-ring of the old filter isn’t stuck to the surface and came off with the filter itself.

Once all the oil has dripped out, apply some fresh oil the rubber seal on the new filter and hand screw it in until it bottoms out. Use a torque wrench and tighten the filter to 30Nm. I also use a small bit of white paint to point downwards so I know if the filter ever loosens/rotates any.

The two drain plugs both require new copper crush washers. These are available from the dealer/where you bought the filter. You need one 10257060 and one 10261860.

Next, after all the oil has stopped dripping out, you will want to reinstall both drain plugs with the new washers. I wasn’t able to find any official torque specs for these so just made sure they were adequately tight and the copper washers were yielding. I took mark these with a bit of paint to later see if they are backing out at all.

There’s many opinions on oil choice. I went with a Pennzoil Euro 5w40 full sythn. The datasheet lists Ferrari approval, it’s easily available, and was DIRT cheap (on special and with mail in rebate I got 5L bottles for around $12/each!)

Next is time to refill the engine. I figured out the amount to add back by measuring how much I took out. This ended up being very accurate for me and I didn’t need to top up after. The range seems to be around 7L-8L. It’s important to not overfill the engine.

Check under the car again for any signs of leaks on the drain plugs or filter. I had a bit of a mess to cleanup as I overfilled the funnel during filling by mistake and it spilt everywhere in the area and dripped down over everything.

The final stage is to start and measure the oil in the engine now. Start the engine and monitor the oil level on the dipstick as it warms up. When the oil is cold, you may be under the minimum mark. as the oil heats it should expand and move up the dip stick. Again, you’ll want the oil warmed at least to the point that you have several cycles of the fans kicking in at 90degC. If you require more oil, now is the time to top it up. I tend to prefer leaving the level halfway between min and max when fully warmed, but others will say to bring it all the way to the max mark.

Finally, reinstall the trim pieces and the front under-shield if you removed it. I took the additional step of removing the heat-shield that got oil all over it to better clean it. On future changes, I will remove it from the beginning. The process is simple to remove it, four bolts is all it takes. Once off, clean it up and then reinstall.

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